Saturday, November 11, 2017

Asian adventure 2017: Shanghai

Our second trip to Asia! Visiting Thailand had been on our mind for a while. As we had not visited Shanghai in 2015, we felt that this was the perfect opportunity to do so before traveling to Thailand.

Getting there:  the Air Canada flight from Toronto to shanghai was 14 hours long. But eh, we managed 12 hours to Beijing in 2015 so, what are a couple of hours more?

And it is so exciting to fly over half the world !

At some points, on one my numerous “promenades” to the back of the plane, I opened the “blind” and looked 33,000 feet down: snow, rocks, Siberia! Our plane GPS indicated that we were flying over the Aldan plateau, and Yakutsk, which has been listed as one of the coldest city on earth. From above, I could see buildings, snow, vast areas of rocks and desert. I could have stared out of the window for hours!



And then, 3 movies later, 3 meals later, we landed in Shanghai! As our stay in China was not going to be longer than a couple of days, we needed to apply for a short-term visa…it was a Sunday night, few customs officers worked and the travelers in need of such a visa were processed  v e r y  s l o w l y  by one team of  uniformed bureaucrats. We stood there for 2.5 hours…what a welcome! Our 2 days stay in Shanghai area had begun.

Basically, we had one day in the city itself: our guide brought us first to a silk factory.  The making of silk is fascinating: how cocoons are processed to produce such a fine fabric. This processing plant specialized in the making of silk duvets.




 Century old silk tapestries were much more fascinating than duvets...thousands of knots, subtle colours, infinite details, real works of art!


Shanghai is one of the 10 most populous cities in the world with some 24 millions inhabitants: unfortunately, the city has lost many of its old quarters to unscrupulous developers. We were lucky, I guess, to see some urban scenes of Old Shanghai.








Next excusion was to Nanjing Road, a modern pedestrian zone lined with stores and boutiques typical for the global village : the GAP, Victoria’s secret, HMV, etc…Having no interest in shopping in this kind of stores, we preferred to explore parallel streets, one of them specializing in small shops selling brushes and papers used in Chinese calligraphy!




24 millions people in a city means a lot of Bikes, scooters, Bixi!



Later that day, we visited another top tourist destination: the French Concession area. This area was built after China’s loss in the Opium Wars in 1842. The French Concession was established in 1849. Shanghai, like many other cities in China, was forced to open itself as an international port of call. The area was expanded a few times and it had its own laws and regulation: entrance by local Chinese was very limited. Chinese artists and intellectuals as well as foreigners (American, British and in the wake of the Russian revolution, Russians) flooded into this area in the 1920 and 1930’s. Opium and gambling were the main businesses in those latter years. In 1937, the Japanese army invaded the city and many residents left the city. In 1943, during WW II, the government of Vichy, France, announced that it would give up all its concessions, including Shanghai, in exchange for France relinquishing all its foreign concessions in China.



While the former French Concession remained largely unchanged during the early decades of Communist rule, the late 1980s and early 1990s saw unregulated re-development of the area tore apart many old neighbourhoods. For example, the London Planes that graced the former Avenue Joffre were removed in the 1990s, only to be later replaced after public outcry. The old French Club building and its gardens, which used to be a sports field in the early days, were gutted and became the base of the high-rise Okura Garden Hotel. And so, luckily, there are still several French planes lined streets in Shanghai but the area is one of boutiques, restaurants and is mostly frequented by tourists.


This lovely fontain is depicting Fu,Lu and Shou, also known as the Three Star Gods. Popular symbols in Feng Shui, they represent luck, prosperity and longevity!





No.76 Xingye Road (below) is located in this area and is a very popular sight with tourists, as it the site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party of China (1921): we could not visit this museum on the day we were in the area as there was a special event/meeting of the Communist Party and many military or police officers were sending us away by yelling: go away, fast, faster!!!!

Here the museum building is depicted as well as those famous plane trees!




That day our guide brought us to the Bund or waterfront area of central Shanghai. This embarkment is one of the main attraction of Shanghai and basically consists of a long pedestrian area along the river Huangpu: it faces the modern skyscrapers of the Pudong District. We did enjoy the walk along the Bund but we felt that it would be more exciting to see it at night with all the buildings illuminated!






Around 4pm, we left our group in the French Concession and walked a good hour and a half to get back to the Bund. We were quite tired due to the jet lag and the beginning of our Shanghai flu which was slowly taking its toll, but we made it! Thanks to evening darkness coming early, when we got to the Bund, together with hundreds of other people, Shanghai had all its lights on! 











We took photos and then, 15 minutes later, heavy rain began falling! Of course, our umbrellas were at the hotel. We managed to walk as fast as possible to the nearest metro station! We had prepared our subway trip back to our hotel!




 Heiner had it all figured out on his cell phone. This is an extensive metro network covering 365 miles!!! and has 14 lines! We knew that all the directions were listed in Chinese and in English in the subway. BUT…there is always a but…there were 2 trains going on line 10 (Xinjiangwancheng): and only one of them then to our destination. Hum…we asked fellow passengers but their English being deficient, we figured out only one part of the solution. Then we asked an employee who signified to us to wait for “the second train”. In the mean time, we analyzed the symbols on the front of the train we had to take…the one with 3 symbols only. Easy! The speed of the incoming train was significant and the glass doors of the subway ramp made seeing the info on the front of the train very difficult. But all went well…arrived at our destination, Heiner took us in the right direction and we walked 30 minutes in heavy rain! Oh! What an adventure!We warned our guide to search for us if we were not back at the hotel the next morning!





The next day was dedicated to Hangzhou, a tea growing area and to West Lake, a fresh water lake with numerous temples, pagodas, and gardens lining its shores. This area of a great beauty has inspired poets and artists for many centuries and has been found to be one of the most important source of inspirations for Chinese gardens designers. It was made UNESCO World heritage site in 2011 as it reflected an idealized fusion between humans and nature. No need to say that this area has become a major touristic attraction.

We needed to travel 3.5 hours by coach to get there (one way). That day, a thick fog enveloped Hangzhou: while it gave the scenery a mysterious atmosphere, it also made photo taking very challenging! However, after a day spent in a mega-city such as Shanghai, we all very much enjoyed the misty air and the tranquility of the mountains.


First we visited Longjing tea plantations. Longjing Tea or Dragon Well Tea of more than 1200 years old is the No. 1 tea in China and regarded as the “Green Queen”. The mountains and the surroundings were magnificient. Tea bushes were of a luminous green colour and the tea delicious!!! We were explained the different steps of tea growing and strongly encouraged to make green tea a daily drink! Chinese are fervent tea drinkers and every one has a bottle with green tea leaves at the bottom which will be refilled over and over!!! 

 The setting is indeed magnificient with its miniature trees, the huge teapot and the red lanterns..and lotuses!It must be an amazing place in the spring!

A view of a large pagoda on West lake. Several boats zigzag its waters. Such a pity the fog was so thick!!!





This area if covered by lotuses! Of course, at that time of the year, the flowers are gone and the plants are fading away! It is difficult to imagine how such a beautiful flower emerges from such muddy waters!






There was such elegance and serenity in this area. One could contemplate this landscape throughout the months of the year without tiring!

Before we make our way to the International Shanghai airport for our flight to Bangkok, we went to an interesting restaurant.  The place brought one back to the time of Mao!!! Its interior was a bit on the rough side, with some Chinese customers being really loud, the food quite nice but the service unwelcoming and these Mao related artefacts...I asked the guide if Mao had dined here sometimes ago..No but this being the province (Hunan) where the chairman is originally from, it seems a way to honour his memory! Interestingly, our guide did admit that a large part of the population (himself included, it seems!!) are nostalgic about the Mao years. Acknowledging that not all Mao's projects and ideas were good, it seems that the overall feeling is that he did a lot of good for the country.

Anyhow, if revolutionary music had played in the restaurant, it would have been easy to fall back to the past.

















Thursday, April 06, 2017

Another Cuban adventure


Cuba is a BIG island. This was our 6th visit (including our month long stay in 2000) when we cruised with our sailboat) and we pick a new region every time we visit. The red dots show our previous visits...with a big arrow to the Playa Santa Lucia.


Camaguey is the third largest city of Cuba..but we just landed there. The city was 1.5 hours away from our accommodation on Playa Santa Lucia..a strip of land surrounded by water: the Atlantic on one side and a lagoon on the other La laguna el real.  The reef on the Atlantic side is extensive, the laguna a favorite site for hundreds of flamingos.



Our hotel was very pretty: the green spaces were numerous and  the gardens lovingly maintained, around the bar, the pool and the small cafĂ©. Not too manicured but decorated with tinajones, large clay pots typical for the area of Camaguey, and other small and large clay sculptures. 




Our preferred spot was the "library"! Indeed, designated as a reading area, it was the quietest place on the resort: we went there every afternoon with a glass of rum and our newly acquired cigars!
It is always quite an endeavour to find those local cigars ...they come in a white paper roll, 25 of them. Cubans pay 24 Cuban pesos for them. We used the bicycles of the resort to explore the surroundings and asked people where we could buy such cigars. The problem was that Marleyne (who has not reviewed her Spanish lessons) could not grasp the directions (she is challenged anyway when it comes to directions!!!)....

We understood something about Centro comercial...ok! we know where this one is! A man chatting with a shop owner tells me that he can sell me one pack for ..10 CUC! Ah ahahah...I am no Yuma (nickname given to dumb tourists). I turn around and say adios.  Not 1 minute later, the man calls me : ok, 5 CUC.  I play the submissive wife and claims that I have to talk to my husband. We decide not to buy them from him. Later that week, we come across El Trayler, a small snack bar in a trailer (!), operated by Daniel. Upon my inquiry, he tells me to wait and disappears in the back, chatting with somebody (Heiner waits with the 2 bikes on the road). He says that he has to get them...and starts walking! I offer him my bike instead! He loves it. He gets us 2 packs at 1 CUC each (!!!) ...and we reward his efforts with a nice tip. Everybody is happy. 











Another striking thing about Club Amigo Mayanabo was the friendliness of staff ..all of them were truly nice.  Cleaning staff, sailing instructors, bar employees! everybody.  Here at the beach bar is Orlando. 

 Orlando himself built this beach bar and is very proud of it. He works 3 weeks at the time and does not like to leave it in the hands of other staff members ! He makes each drink with care and pride..and god knows, he makes hundred of drinks a day!

We sailed the small catamaran with 3 different instructors, sailing in zigzag to and back from the reef. The winds were between 13 and 18 knots...delightful!

We also rented a scooter for 24 hours. We were told that the best scooters were to be found at the Tararaco hotel: Alberto was the man in charge.

While it is quite simple to rent a scooter, it is more challenging in Cuba.  When we inquired a day earlier, Alberto omitted to tell us about a deposit of 80 CUC when renting a scooter. We did not have such cash money with us so, after a bit of discussion, he told us to forget about the deposit...

The rental fee for 24 hours was 30 CUC.  Alberto emphasized that we should put gasolina especial (1,20 CUC per liter) in our Suzuki 125cc. So, hop we go to the gas station. Nothing is going on, the 2 attendants sit and chat. Asked ChĂ© passa???? one of them tells me that there is no gasolina especial..and something more that Marleyne doesn't quite get (if she were a better student....she would have!). So, we drive back to Alberto and tell him that there is no gasolina especial.  Oh, no problemo...just take regular! Yes, but...no, no, no problemo, take regular. OK! back to the gas station. This time, it is more puzzling: no regular, no especial, no fuel! the pumps do not work: Se rompio!!! (It is broken) a commonly used expression in Cuba. Ok, back to Alberto: in the mean time, there is really very little gas left in the scooter.

While we were thinking of cancelling the contract and give up, Alberto and his colleague were not at all on that wave length: in Cuba, there is a solution to everything! Has to be!
Alberto, not deterred, disappears in the backroom and comes out with a 10 liter gas can...an empty one, mind you. He gets a rubber hose out and proceeds to suck the remaining gasoline from every one bike (5) available. Unfortunately, the bikes have very little gas left in their tank (he siphons it back!!!)...but the last one has a full tank! yeah! Here we go with a full tank!

We used our scooter very well; not sure if it was appropriate for Marleyne' s hip (in fact, she had to use her cane on the following days!!!) but it was so much fun to be "motorized".


Our first excursion was to visit the playa Los Cocos and the Boca at the western end of Playa Santa Lucia. Transat was selling excursions to these places emphasizing that these were some of the most wonderful beaches in Cuba. Only a portion of the road going there was asphalted; the remainder was crushed stone and red earth...the landscape was semi deserted. We hoped that the scooter would not die on us!





After some swimming, we went to La Boca where casa particulares (B&B) and paladars (restaurants operated by Cubans in their houses) abund! We could have had lobster meals for 10-15 CUC. No idea how much the accommodation cost.The neighbourhood was so so...





On our way back, we took more time to explore the marshes inhabited by flamingos. They were quite numerous but quite far away and difficult to photograph.


The marshes were shallow and their beaches covered with white foam due to high salt density.

As we had the scooter for 24 hours, we drove around, explorer as much as we could..here is a sample of houses and small communities along the way.






Those apartment buildings looked really sad...life is rough for many Cubans.




Back to our resort, we spent the rest of the days sailing and walking...enjoying the view from our room!