Travels ... here and somewhere else ....!: Eastern Pyrenées

Eastern Pyrenées : From Andorra to the Mediterranée.

For a long time, we dreamed to explore the Pyrenees: this year, we hauled the boat late September and left 4 days later for Barcelona. After studying the camper and car rental options, we finally chose to travel using public transportation. This required a bit more work on our part to figure out trains and busses schedules and modalities in both Spain and France.

The flight Montreal - Barcelona proved an excellent choice! It had been a long time since our last trip to Europe (pre-Covid, fall 2019) and we wanted to get back in the travel mode as well as to recover from jet lag before heading to our main destination. We knew Barcelona well and so, our goal was to enjoy Barcelona without any kind of agenda. We chose an accommodation very close to Plaça Catalunya – a great location when transferring to and from Barcelona El Prat airport. From day 1, we enjoyed nice summer weather; after a twenty minutes stroll from the Passeig de Gracia train station, we sat down for our first beer at the patio of Cerveceria Universitat, (located just in front of our hotel Chic& Basic Lemon Boutique Hotel) and enjoyed the feeling of having made it to Europe, one more time, despite Covid and its complications.

We really liked the view from our 5th floor hotel room!

There was a bakery on the other side of the street with excellent jamon sandwiches! With the hotel excellent coffee, it was a great start for our days of exploration. Also, in the afternoon, we enjoyed relaxing on the patio with a cappuccino and some sweets.

We strolled through familiar areas of the city, La Rambla of course with its market La Boqueteria, and made late stroll on the Passeig de Garcia to admire Gaudi houses, here Casa Batlo.

Of course, we ended up on the waterfront around noon time, strolling through Barcelonetta and having calamares at the beach restaurant!

A new excursion was the trip with the telepheric from the harbour to Montjuic. (Our last telepheric trip had been in Gibraltar!). What felt a bit strange was to be enclosed in a cabin with about 20+ people…an unusual experience thanks to Covid! Luckily, everybody had to wear a mask.

Montjuic, a translation in Catalan for Jewish mountain, was so named after remains of a medieval Jewish cemetery were found on this185 meters high hill. Besides riding the telepheric , we also wanted to visit the Foundation Joan Miro. This modern art museum reminded us the Foundation Maeght in St Paul de Vence. A beautiful concept of architecture and gardens to exhibit works of art in a natural landscape.

After 4 nights in the Catalan metropolis, time came to leave for the Catalan Pyrenées. Our first destination was Olot in the Garrotxa valley, an area popular for its extinct volcanoes and its surrounding beech forests. We traveled by bus from Barcelona with the Garrotxa Express line of Teisa Bus Company. The trip began in rainy weather (the only bit of rain for the whole 3 weeks of our trip) through Barcelona’s suburbs. As we approached Olot, the sun appeared!

Olot is an important cultural and commercial centre in the region. We chose this destination because it seemed like a good starting point to visit the surrounding areas – the volcanoes, as well as surrounding medieval villages such as Santa Pau and Besalu.

Olot and its surrounding villages

While our hostal Sant Bernat was not to our liking, our room had a small balcony and a nice view of the surrounding hills.

Not having breakfast in the hostel, we walked everyday to Olot centre. We found a real nice café El Carrilet with the most delicious jamon sandwiches and excellent coffee. It was a very popular spot with locals every morning of the week. We also visited a large supermarket to purchase bread and jamon for our daily hikes sustenance! Ah! Jamon was delightful!

On Sunday, Olot's giants paraded through the town's streets. These are large figures and are made in Olot's statuary workshops. These did not seem to be of a religious nature, however. We did not figure out what the purpose of the celebration...but Olot's residents were in great numbers in the streets.

Tourist season was done in Olot and we were happy to find one café open where we went almost on a daily basis. El Café del Firal had pretty tasty calamares a la plancha and patatas braves or Olot patates! Another common offering was anchovies and bread with tomatoes or Pa amb tomàquet as an accompaniment.

Olot and the area of Garrotxa in general is more humid than neighbouring regions. There is a saying as to "if it isn't raining in Olot, it isn't raining anywhere". The city is known for its natural landscape, including four volcanoes scattered around the city center. From our hostal, it was possible to hike around each of those (and we had long hikes every day!) volcanoes (illustrated in green on the map).

We took the bus to visit Santa Pau. A medieval village nested in the green hills of the Garrotxa valley.

We visited Santa Pau on a Sunday. Restaurants were open only between 12 and 2pm. Lucky us then on weekdays in the low season most establishments would have been closed! Low season means low season! We liked the food at the small restaurant under the arcades! Friendly service and delicious calamares!

Another excursion from Olot led us to the Ermitage of Sant Miquel del Corb.

This is one of the oldest church (pre-romanesque) of the Garroxta. The first mention of a place of pilgrimage on this site dates from the 10th century. The area is truly beautiful.

After 3 days of hikes in this region, we were ready to move forward to Prades, in the French part of the Pyrennées. We were looking forward to this journey with trains and busses through the highest peaks of the Eastern Pyrenées. Early morning, we walked from our hotel to Olot's Bus station. We stopped at a coffee shop (Zig Zag café) for excellent croissants and coffee overlooking the river Fluvia. Adieu Olot.

The distance to travel from Olot to Prades was 153km. We could have taken a more direct route (flying like a bird across the mountains?) but we felt like traveling slow through the high mountains with crossing the border at a place called Latour de Carol in French or La Tor de Querol-Enveig in Catalan language.

We first had to take a bus from Olot to reach Ripoll and from there take the train to the French border. From Olot to Ripoll, the villages are few. Only mountains...Even Ripoll despite his 11,000 population felt absolutely quiet. We sure were happy to have stayed in Olot rather than Ripoll. Without a car, one is really bound to the very close surroundings. We had only 30 minutes to walk to Ripoll's train station and wait for our train (Catalan network of the RENFE spanish train company) called Rodalies.

The landscapes were breathtaking during our rail trip.

This train stopped at Latour de Carol. It could not have continued to France due to the fact that Spanish and French train tracks have different gauges! While the Spanish Renfe owned tracks with 5 ft 521⁄32 gauge, the French owned SNCF tracks are 4 ft 8+1⁄2 in and there is a vintage (???) type of train called Le Train Jaune with (3 ft 3+3⁄8 in). In 1844, technical experts decided that wider locomotives were required in order to cross without problems the steep slopes and the rugged terrain of the Spanish mountains.

Latour de Carol train station is located at an altitude of ca. 2000 meters (6,000 feet), with all the train tracks (Spain/France) ending here. It really feels like having reached the end of the line ...

The high mountains peaks of the French (Western ) Pyrenées can be seen at the horizon.

From Latour, we were to take another bus bringing us to Prades. We had time to enjoy our first beer (Estrella, Barcelona's beer!!) as well as frites! The restaurant de la Gare was very animated with owners and customers speaking French and Spanish. After the quiet desolation of Catalan mountain villages, it almost felt like we landed in Paris!

From Latour to Prades was a short 62km with the bus! But what a magnificent stretch through the steep and green Pyrenées. The area is well liked for its ski hills and it was easy to imagine how busy these small villages would be in the winter time! Several ski huts lined the streets of the villages. There were some small places that I had read about in the guidebook but with the bus, it was not possible to explore them. One of the drawbacks of not having a car. On the other hand, we were both happy to sit and admire the landscape, leaving the driving stress to the bus driver! At times, when cars passed the bus at high speed on these steep and curved roads, even the bus driver expressed his discontentment!

Prades! We were to spend 4 nights here in this small community (about 8000 inhabitants) of Occitanie, about 40 km from Perpignan. Our B&B was located on the main street. Maison 225 (Maison 225 | Stylish and comfortable B&B accomodation in the heart of Prades (225prades.com) was an amazing place, and every day, we did enjoy our suite, as well as the generous and delicious breakfast offered by our hosts, Sharon et Declan, both Irish expats!

We planned several excursions from Prades. The Occitanie network of public transportation - LiO - enabled us to travel to any destination in the region for 1 euro! Who needs a car! The bus stop was very close to our hotel. Our first exploration trip was eastwards, to Ille-sur-Têt and les Orgues.

Ille-sur-Têt is a small town (ca.6000 inhabitants) located on the river Têt. A pretty village with the magnificent tower of the St-Etienne church, dominating the landscape.

The most popular attraction of Ille is the site of Les Orgues. It is easy to walk from the center of town to this natural wonder!

These geological curiosities appear to have come from another planet, but the columns are in fact formed from sand and clay and have been shaped over time by erosion.

The highest chimneys (!) can reach up to 10 meters.

Referred to as hoodoos, these chimneys have a hard rock layer that covers them and protects them from too rapid erosion. As explained in the guide, a drop of water dripping down the side of the hoodoo is carried away by its own weight. It only takes off a grain of sand or drags a clay flake. It is the repetition of such action that carves the pipe and not a volcanic phenomenon.

It certainly was worth the 5 euros fee to enter this magnificent nature-created amphitheater! Yes, it is a small area but to have it well protected as a park keeps the site protected from vandalism.

Back at Ille-sur-Têt around 2h30, it proved impossible to find a restaurant still open for a small meal.

Same problem in Prades... Luckily, there was a Lidl store as well as a huge bakery 10 minutes away from our B&B. We therefore decided to enjoy or own terrasse with French wine, local pâté, cheese and an amazing bread loaf.

Next morning, the air was crisp and the view of the Canigou was magnificent.

On that day's program, a bus trip back to Latour de Carol was planned: we simply wished to travel this beautiful mountain stretch again! Our stops included Montlouis et Villefranche sur Conflent. That morning at breakfast, we ate our copious breakfast and chatted with a German couple met a day earlier. We very much enjoyed them and were a bit disappointed to have to rush to the bus stop! That morning, however, the bus did not show up as planned. We waited...saw some signs of an incident on the road far away and after half an hour decided to walk back to our B&B. Surprise: The German couple stood in the hallway, saying goodbye to the hosts and so after some short explanations, as luck would have it, they took us as passengers in their VW Westfalia! It was the first times in decades that we traveled in a Bulli!

We enjoyed our excursion and their company as far as Fort Montlouis! We were enjoying this view of the mountains and on our way to the fort, we were spoiled with an amazing view of the Pont Gisclard.

At 800 meters altitude, this 250 meters long bridge is suspended over the Têt river and enables train circulation without any kind of vibration or oscillation! Le Train Jaune drives on it. We would have like to use the Train Jaune but it was not functional at this time. Indeed, we saw a helicopter transporting work crews performing repairs on the pylons! Very impressive!

Together with Corinna and Jo, we stayed there and enjoyed the grandiose landscape!

Arrival at the Fort Mont-Louis. On our first trip en route to Prades, we caught a glimpse of this imposing military structure. It was erected in the 17th century to defend the new France borders with Spain (according to a peace treaty called Traité des Pyrénées). This huge fortress designed in 2 days (!) and perfectly adapted to the ruggedness of the terrain - was built in less than 2 years by 3700 soldiers under the direction of the military architect Vauban. Mont-Louis still has a military function today—the National Commando Training Centre — is housed in the citadel buildings. For great aerial shots, see the video: (Mont-Louis - city of the Sun King | Pyrénées Cerdagne Tourisme (pyrenees-cerdagne.com)

After meandering in the small and eerily quiet village of Mont-Louis (adjacent to the fort), we said goodbye to Corinna and Jo on their way to Carcassonne. What a nice encounter with those 2!!!

We took the bus back towards Prades not without stopping at Villefranche de Conflent. Another gem of a village (listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France) where we spent a couple of hours wandering its streets and its rampart walls. Due to its strategic location, Villefranche became another site of defense against Spanish incursions in the17th century. However, despite reinforcing its walls by adding 6 bulwarks and towers, Vauban decided to have another point of defense on the hill above the village. Fort Libéria is now seen looming over Villefranche and has been classified Unesco monument.

Vauban may have felt that Villefranche was not well protected but, to us, its ramparts convey an impression of strength! See aerial shot: Villefranche de Conflent – Official Website

Besides its military vocation, Villefranche had a commercial one. Indeed, this alley was once called the alley of the weavers. The weavers made garments of wool (mostly) and the quality of their products made them famous throughout Europe. There was not tax collected on this commercial asset, hence the name of Ville franche, meaning free town!

It was around 2 o'clock when we arrived in Villefranche: a few cafés and bars were open, but the village was in siesta mode!

We found a pretty terrasse, however, where we were able to enjoy the local beer!

It was time to return to Prades. The afternoon light revealed one more time the charm of this region.

Last Excursion from Prades to Saint Michel de Cuixa. Another beautiful, sunny morning! We are the only 2 guests in the dining room of Maison 225. We are going on foot follwing a trail that should lead to the Abbaye.

We really enjoy this early morning walk among the abricot trees plantation!

We cross the village of Codalet and get to a small chapel St-Jean de Dossorons with a magnificent view of the mountains. This chapel has an interesting history as an ermitage beginning in 1350.

The path leading to the Abbaye of Saint-Michel is beautiful and peaceful. It offers glimpses of the abbaye lost in the green forests.

And then we arrive at the Abbaye.

We were not able to visit the interior because the timing of the visits were very limited. Probably because only few monks (Benedictins) live there nowadays. In the You tube video down below, the French TV journalist visited in December 2017. At this time, only 2 monks lived there. They entered this abbaye as young men and will probably die there. When Benedictins enter a monastery, it is until their death. Saint-Michel de Cuxa - Visites privées - YouTube

The story of the abbaye is fascinating. In the 9th century, the water of the river Têt rise to the point that a small community of monks must escape their monastery located near the riverbed. They move towards the site of the current abbaye. The abbaye develops and is under several different protectorats. A decisive point in its history is reached during the French Revolution. The abbaye is nationalized and the clergy evicted. Subsequently, the buildings fall into disrepair. In the 20th century, an important part of the abbaye is shipped to New York where it is rebuilt stone by stone on the riverbanks of the Hudson river in an ensemble of museums called The Cloisters.

For a detailed history, see Abbey of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa - Wikipedia.

We stopped near the abbaye for a quick lunch. On our way back to Prades, we were to find other interesting artefacts. Like this small mausoleum...It so happened that the Doge of Venice (976-978), Pietro 1 Orseolo was convinced to become a monk. Together with an abbot and 3 other Venitians,he left his family, abdicated and fled in the night to Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa. He left the abbaye after some years as a monk and became a hermit in the surroundings forests. His body is buried in Prades church.

The return path to Prades was along the beautiful Bohère canal. It is about 40 km long and its construction took 17 years. Its history is tumultuous (c'est la France!!!) but it is thanks to this canal that the agricultural land in its vicinity have been irrigated and productive. A syphon built in 1933 marks its most productive period. Mairie de Prades › Culture & Patrimoine › Patrimoine › Le Canal de Bohère, 150 ans d'Histoire (1864 - 2014)

We planned to end this tour of the Pyrenées at the Mediterranée. We arrived in Collioure on a warm and sunny afternoon. It was bursting with life and colours...just the way we imagined it. October is cancer prevention month in France and pink was omnipresent. The bus trip from Prades with a stop in Perpignan had been uneventful and cost 1Euro - even the transfer was included in that price! It was a short walk from the bus stop Le Glacis to our Hôtel Les Templiers, in the heart of the town. We could not check in before 3pm so we decided to have a small lunch in one of the numerous restaurants lining the small streets of Collioure. What we were about to find is that Collioure is synonym of anchovies! You can buy them in cans, eat them fresh or marinated! It even smells of anchovies in town! Of course, calamaris were also available and so why not having both! A very delicious lunch under the mediterranean sun.

We were delighted with Collioure's waterfront.

Hôtel Les Templiers was very special; in addition to its great location, the interior resembled an art gallery! Collioure and its surroundings was loved by artists in the 19th and early 20th century, especially impressionists. For 3 generations, this establishment, dating from the beginning of the last century, has welcomed many artists and sculptors who have left their mark in this unique, typically Catalan house, dedicated to modern and contemporary art. Whether you are in the corridors leading to the rooms, in the stairways, or in the small bar, thousands of works cover the walls in total!

Collioure is so very pittoresque; with its Chateau Royal dominating the bay,

and with a tower on top of almost each of the surrounding mountains.

First, we hiked to the mill of Collioure - le moulin de Cortina - which was built in the 14th century for grinding cereals and then transformed into an oil mill.

Then uphill on a gravel road to the Fort Saint Elme which was built in the 16th century at 170 meters altitude!

Fort Saint Elme has a fascinating history: The fortress (fortsaintelme.fr) The Saint Elme Fortress is one of those rare fortifications that have been used for more than two centuries without undergoing major transformations. It is true that the greatest architects have examined its foundations. First of all, the Catalan Francisco Ramiro Lopez who built the first foundations as well as the castle of Salses, then the Italian Benedetto of Ravenna who built this star-shaped fortress with inclined walls of more than 8 meters thick. Finally, Vauban created the ditches and installed brick crowns on the building that was less dangerous to the soldiers than the stone bursts. The path from Fort Saint Elme leads to another fort...one sees the tower on the hill. The views from there are just marvelous. It was a pleasant walk to Fort Dugommier.

Another possible hike was to walk to Port Vendres, south of Collioure. Port-Vendres has a commercial harbour but not much else that we enjoyed. The views of Collioure on our way back were worth the effort!

As mentioned earlier, Collioure's landscapes and climate attracted tourists and especially artists. The Mediterranean palette is irresistible! An area of Collioure that is particularly colourful is Le Mouré.

Hier is Matisse represented with a copy of The roofs of Collioure painted in 1905.

Derain painted Collioure et la mer.

The small (anchovies) fishing vessels called Les barques catalanes are particularly pittoresque at Collioure's waterfront. Of course, as we were there mid-october, the number of boats was reduced.

Collioure's anchovy festival (June) is probably the best time to see the entire flotilla!

At night, a small barque by the Chateau Royal promenade! We walked along this promenade every day of our stay in Collioure. Just so beautiful.

Collioure was a great place to sample local food: with so many tourists, restaurants were plentiful and schedules not as limited as in Prades, for example.

We enjoyed moules et frites on a windy evening. They were delicious!

We also enjoyed a gourmet meal at the restaurant Can Pla. Recommended by the Guide du Routard, Marleyne had the menu routard which consisted of a delicious fish soup, grilled fresh fish and an amazing crème catalane for dessert. Heiner enjoyed calamaris a la plancha with patatas bravas: they were the most delicious calamaris of the entire trip! So tender, they literally melted in one's mouth!

The view from our hotel room where we sat with a good bottled of wine and marinated anchovies as appetizers. Living like kings in France...as the German saying goes!

Our journey was nearing its end. The last day before our departure, there was a transportation strike day in France. We spend too much of our precious time figuring out how to go back to Barcelone from Collioure. Our plan to take the train along the coast from Collioure to Port Bou (Spain) and from Port Bou to Barcelona was cancelled. There was too much unknown about the development of the strike movement. We decided to travel by bus instead. We caught a bus (place du Glacis again) from Collioure to Perpignan. Then took the Flixbus from Perpignan to Barcelona. The night before, we purchased the ticket online: it was half the price than to travel with the Spanish bus company ALSA. The bus even arrived 20 minutes earlier than announced! We certainly would not hesitate to travel with this company again.

In Barcelona, we returned to our Chic&Basic Lemon boutique hotel. It was really great to be familiar with the surroundings. We asked for the same room we had on our arrival; the people at the reception desk were so nice and shifted reservations around to accommodate us! And, they gave us a little gift: a bottle of Spanish red wine stood on our table when we entered the room! That's service!

We enjoyed the rest of the afternoon and the evening strolling through the streets of Barcelona. The evening was mild, and we had tapas at a Basque restaurant as our final meal!

Guess what we had?????? Calamaris and fried pimiento de padron! And beer!

With a few tears in our eyes ... we headed back home the next morning, arrived in Montreal on time but had a very long wait in very crowded halls: The problem was that the check-in stations computers were malfunctioning !?$@@#.