Antigua!

From St-Martin not so far away...except that Antigua lies east and that winds are easterly..you get the picture. We departed with northeasterly winds between 15-20 and were able to sail for a good 10 hours until winds became weaker and more easterly. We motored for 14 hours and arrived in Jolly Harbour in the morning. What a beautiful sight! And very jolly Immigration and Customs officers...

It was wonderful to anchor and swimm in deep blue water instead of the murky Simpson Bay lagoon of St-Martin! We rested and caught up on some sleep as we were to leave the west coast of Antigua next morning.

Waiting for weather in St-Martn. Luckily, we met great people and had a very nice time. Together with Angel and Janet of Tahimi, we celebrated Gerhold's birthday on Amphora and enjoyed Rita's fabulous meal... We spent quite a bit of time with them afterwards. Marleyne and Rita, besides doing watercolours and art, also enjoyed a good hand rolled vanilla cigar...girls just want to have fun! Yes.

Notre sempiternelle attente pour une meteo fut tres agreable a cause des gens tres sympa que nous avons rencontres! Avec Angel and Janet de Tahimi, on a celebre la fete de Gerhold sur Amphora. Rita avait prepare tout un festin. En plus de nous amuser a faire de l'aquarelle, Rita et Marleyne ont decouvert un autre hobby: les cigares!

A visit to Phillipsburg, Netherland side was fun...besides diamonds and watch stores, there were some more authentic gingerbread houses and other interesting structures!

Une visite a Phillipsburg, du cote hollandais de l'ile, s'avera interessante...a part les magasins de diamants et de montres, il y avait des jolies maisons a architecture antillaises...

After a long wak on the beach, we sat under plam trees and ate a delicious bowl of Etna Ice Cream (the local ice cream)...delicious!

Nous avons termine notre visite par une pause sur la plage, sous les palmiers, en degustant la creme glacee locale, Etna (aux pistaches)!

February is Carneval months in many of the catholic islands in the Caribbean...this was a rehearsal for the real thing in the last week of the month! Colourful....now you know what to do with your Christmas decorations: HATS!!!!!!!!!!!! The energy (in watts as well as in movement) coming from the paticipants, as well as their natural beauty, made it a worthwile experience!

Fevrier: mois du carnaval! Nous avons eu la chance d'assister a cette repetition (le vrai defile n'etant que le 22)...Couleurs , musique venant de haut-parleurs de millions de megawatts, l'energie et la beaute des participants en valu la peine!

Dimanche...journee ideale pour faire (enfin) une randonnee entre Marigot et Grand Case pour arriver au village de Colombier...mornes et plantations de cocotiers, vaches ruminant paisiblemen sous un immense manguier...nature paisible si ce n'est des gospels et des voix de preachers qui peuvent etre entendus pres des petites eglises ...

Sunday, we hiked to a pittoresque little village between Marigot and Grand Case: Colombiers! Green and lush, with coconut trees and cattle under a huge mango tree, it was a peaceful scenery...once in a while interrupted by gospels and preacher's talk coming from small churches along the way.

It seems that we have been here for ever but there are always new experiences that thrill us...like watching mega-yachts passing the lift bridge...It's actually a thrill for us with "small" boats...we go to the Sant Maarten Yacht Club for happy hour and wait for the big ones to come through!

Bien que nous soyons depuis plus de 7 jours ici, nous avons encore plein d'activites...a part celle qui consiste a nous regrouper au Yacht Club de Sant Maarten pour regarder les mega-yachts passer avec peine (moins de 1 pied entre le pont et le bateau!) dans le pont levant menant a la lagune.

Still in St-Martin....besides provisionning, we have been visiting with fellow boaters, exchanged ideas about cruising routes and attempted to make good pictures of Marigot...it is actually difficult may be because there are so many cars parked everywhere or because the streets are narrow and do not allow good shots...anyhow, yesterday, we climbed Fort Louis and tried to get a fell for the climate on St-Martin during the late 18 century, when French and English were at wars and disputed every inch of territory available.

We then visited the Art Gallery L'Escale Des Iles on the waterfront of Marigot. There was an excellent phtography exposition on Haiti as well as other very original work of arts on wood and in ceramics. We also took photographs of "gingerbread style houses" common here inth Caribbean.

To end the day, we went to the French supermarket and bought a couple more delcacies such as jams of Bonne Maman, Pates, Gin from Spain, etc...

We will stay here for a little while...it is the best place for provisionning, there are plenty of bars to have happy hours, the atmosphere is relaxed and French...what more does one wants?

Being on this French Island was wonderful..it felt like being on the Cote d'Azur...just one disagreement, however: Marigot's Port Authorities have been enforcing a 20Euros fees just for mooring in the bay...the Dutch side of the island had been doing that for a while so the French must have found the idea quite enticing...Local newspaper have been writing on how this mooring tax is perceived by the marine industry (negatively, as you can imagine) and there will be more meetings about it...my readings of excerpts: this tax will stay...

This tax is not beeing applied if the boat is in the lagoon so guess what...La Buena Vida passed the Sandy Grounds bridge first thing in the morning to find a spot beneath the Witch tits...(or Mont Fortune, in French...sounds more distinguished!).

Quel plaisir de se retrouver dans le cadre idyllique de cette France tropicale...jusqu’a ce que le douanier m’apprenne qu’il y a maintenant une taxe si on mouille dans la baie de Marigot..ouille, 20 Euros c’est presque $40.00 canadien juste pour mouiller la...cette taxe est récente et a déjà crée beaucoup de remous dans la communauté avec l’industrie maritime très mécontente! Vu le ton adopte par les autorités je crois que cette taxe va rester...mais bon, puisqu’elle s’applique seulement au mouillage dans la baie de Marigot, on a déménagé au lagon! En passant par un petit pont levant qui évoque un peu les ponts de Van Gogh...

The trip from Virgin Gorda to St-Martin (80 miles) is known as a rock and roll passage due to confused seas (Anegada Passage) and easterly winds on the nose (as can be seen on the picture, we cover our vents with plastic bags...we have a friend who was really surprised to see a waterfall pouring into those vents after he forgot to take the necessary prrecautions!!!).

We hoped that t would not be a "Hard Rock " passage...and expected to have to motorsail all the way to our destination. And it was exactly as we anticipated...The wind was East-Southeast, from 12 to 23 knots (in squalls), seas were confused and choppy (4 to 6 feet on an Easterly swell) but hey! it was a short passage! Only 24 hours...compared with our ocean passages of 7-8 days, it was a "walk in the park" as Lindsay would say... After being greeted with winds of 20 knots and rain showers at our arrival in St-Martin, we sailed into Marigot Bay!

Nope, no departure for St-Martin today...tomorrow! We enjoyed another pancake breakfast with maracuya (passion fruit) jam!

Le depart vers St-Martin est remis a demain....on a encore du se regaler de crepes aux fruits de la passion...en attendant les excellentes confitures Bonne Maman de France...

We will spend another day in the Leverick Bay paradise and enjoy the high winds, here, sipping rum rather than boucing around...for your enjoyment, here is a picture of a rather large sailboat (200+ feet) that tried to compete with us sailing up the North Sound...

Nous passerons une autre journee ds ce petit paradis de Leverick Bay...que pensez-vous de ce grand grand voilier (200 pieds+) qui a essaye de nous depasser hier??????

Hello Friends,

we are in Virgin Gorda Sound ... with an WiFi connection. Hence, just a short update (if possible). We are planing to leave for St. Martin tomorrow (Tuesday). Everything is ready to go, only the weather forecasters disagree on the weather and the condition in the Anegada Passage. We will see tomorrow morning if it is a go - or not.

If we make it, we will try to post a Blog update from St. Martin, but we will certainly update our Position Report when we can along the way.

Voila la fin de notre sejour dans les Iles Vierges...demain, nous essayerons de partir vers St-Martin. Un voyage assez court comparativement a ceux du mois de novembre - mais avec le vent dans le nez et des meteorologues qui sont en desaccord par rapport a sa force. Rien de nouveau!

Nous passons donc notre derniere soiree dans le North Sound de Virgin Gorda - un vrai paradis. il y a meme un flamand rose esseule qui peche sur le rivage!

Nous ferons un rappel de position en mer ou a St_Martin...

And what now????????? Heiner is planning the rest of the trip...we have to wait for a weather window in order to get to the next island St_Martin! We can't wait to reach a French island and wine, cheese and cafes! It is not far, only 75 miles, but we need a norteast wind, not too strong...we will take the coming "waiting" days to work on the boat, do varnishing, rust work, etc...Enjoy the winter, you all!

How to put an end to the caribbean adventure???? Sailing by Green Cay, we arrived to the West End of Tortola at Uwe's last destination before his departure. Good bye, mon!

From Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke, we hiked over the mountain to White Bay in orer to enjoy the erfect white sand beach AND the Soggy Dollar Bar painkiller drinks...as a matter of fact, we have tried to sample that drink in all the bars visited on British Virgin Islands territory! Uwe liked the Sinny Legs bar on Coral Bay, St-John's island best but he liked the Soggy Dollar Beach site best...

Back to Jost Van Dyke island...a beautiful spinnaker sail for 20 miles with a soft breeze and sum shine! The dream of sailors! We had been on Jost but this time, we went to the very well now Foxy's for a fantastic BBQ buffet offering, jerk chicken, succulent ribs and mahi-mahi. What a treat!

It's always nice to bring friends to places that we know but it is also fun to discover new territories. We sailed back to Virgin Gorda, the fairly large island east of the island chain where we first arrived on December 1, 2008. First, we brought Uwe to the Baths! Giant granite boulders, some as large as 40 feet in diameter! They form pools, caves and appear to have fallen from the skies, sometimes, holding precariously together!

A day later, we sailed to Virgin Gorda North Sound, site of the well known Bitter End Yacht Club. If you dispose of a minimum of $650.00 per day per person, this is the place to go! It is a dream place and the North Sound seems to attract rich and wealthy...several mega-yachts and luxury cruise ships anchored in the bay while we were there.

Well, at least I could enjoy the huge bushes of bougainvillae and the luxury oozing from this place!

We returned to Norman Island and thoroughly enjoyed the dance evening at the Pirates. When can you dance barefoot in the cool breeze of the trade winds sipping on an exotic drink?

We ended the night by a midnight swimm, with Heiner first jumping from the dinghy ! When Uwe and I realized that he had not been devoured by sharks, we also went in the water!

And we sailed some more, with Uwe enjoying the Trade Winds or Passat (in german)!

Our efforts were rewarded with wonderful views of adjacent British Virgin Islands and the romantic ruin of a plantation house dating from the Danish occupation times.